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Why Wise Owl ?

The Science of Chalk Style Paint vs. Latex Paint




Minerals and pore space in paint permit adherence to most surfaces without priming.



Distresses with ease. May be wet distressed or distressed with implements. Strengthens as it cures.



Chalk Style is self leveling. Brushstrokes will diminish or disappear while drying. Any remaining is easily sanded away with 275=+ grit sandpaper.



Excellent coverage due to mineral capacity, viscosity, and pore space of Chalk Style paint.


Temperature Sensitivity

Paint composition withstands hotter and colder temperatures once painted as pore space permits expansion and contraction without weakening.


Your Health

No crystalline silicates within the paint, meaning you can distress and sand without fear of dust and crystalline silicate particles damaging lungs.



Needs to be sealed for lasting durability. Wise Owl’s Matte or Satin Varnish are industrial-strength topcoats for high traffic or outdoor pieces.


Matte Finish

Produces Desirable matte finish. Can be changed by selecting Satin Varnish as topcoat to add sheen if desired.



Presence of clay in Wise Owl Chalk Synthesis Paint lends itself beautifully to blending techniques and layering.



Requires sanding and priming for proper adhesion in most cases.



Will gum up when distressing. Activates glues present in Latex paint; results in chunky or stretchy removal.



Generally produces many brushstrokes compared to Chalk-Style paint. Can not be sanded away without impacting finish.


Requires more paint per square foot because of how Latex paint pigments work without a high mineral/clay formula.


Paint strength extremely temperature dependent. Exposure to heat can make finish rubbery, stretchy, or even flake off entirely.


Usually contains crystalline silicates. These silicates are abrasive to the lungs in the same way as asbestos, requiring special safety equipment.

Require water based topcoat to achieve the tenacity and strength to protect the Latex paint finish.




Comes in matte-semigloss, but the shinier the finish, the weaker the bond with the surface.




Blending with Latex paint is not a viable option. Does not incorporate well and results in more severe, blotchy finish.

What’s the biggest thing that makes or breaks a painter?


Quality Products and PREP!


Follow the steps below for success after you’ve completed any needed repairs:


• Clean

• Sand

• Rinse

• Prime

• Paint

• Seal

Following are recommendations

for each of these steps!

If you clean your project before sanding, you won’t gum up your sanding paper with dirt and grime. The best way to clean depends on the level of filth and the existing finish.  Always remove all flaking or peeling paint from the piece.  If it’s not adhering now, putting our paint on top won’t make it better, it will just prevent our finishes from properly bonding.  

Recommended Cleaning Solutions: 
• For cabinets: TSP (tri-sodium-phosphate) or TSP Substitute.  Be careful when using these products, they don’t have a smell but can be caustic on skin so wear gloves and follow manufacturer’s precautions.  Mix with water and scrub cabinets down well with the solution.  Use a green scrubby sponge to remove all oils and buildup.  Once you are done make sure to rinse well with water; paint finishes will not adhere unless the cleaners are completely washed away.  
• For smelly pieces and tobacco smells:  LA’s Totally Awesome is, well, totally awesome!  It’s available at the Dollar Tree.  Krud Kutter works wonders as well.  After a good scrub I generally finish with a rag and vinegar to neutralize any residual odors.  As always, rinse cleaners completely from the piece with water.  
• Alligator varnish or unstable oil-based varnish:  These finishes will generally affect adhesion.  Why?  These old varnishes had a wax in them that rises to the surface after 100+ years and needs to be removed or your finish could peel and/or crackle.  Depression era pieces are often culprits, as well as old singer tables.    Use denatured alcohol to scrub and soften the buildup then sand with a drywall sponge to make removal easiest.  This is especially important before using the One Hour Enamel!


∙ SAND! 
It’s never a bad idea to at least do a quick once over with a sanding block.  Usually this is nothing vigorous!  Just quickly to be sure there are no uneven surfaces or grit left on the piece.
• Laminate or other very slick surfaces:  Scuff sanding before priming or painting will give the paint something to grip on to.  This will help ensure the best adhesion and durability of the finish.
• Cabinets:  Since cabinets are so heavily used, it’s a great idea to scuff sand cabinets well before priming and painting.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Man, I sure hate it when my mom is right lol. It’s much easier than getting to the topcoat stage where the tannins present in the wood will rise to the surface and discolor it (think ugly yellow/orange/pink spots). If this happens stop what you are doing, prime the entire piece in 2 coats, then start over. After painting for a while, you will be able to guess who’s a bleeder and who’s not. Or you just eventually figure out that priming most pieces is just more efficient and cost effective in the long run!

Stain Eliminating Primer - 

Wise Owl Stain Eliminating Primer is available in Clear and White, in Quarts and Gallons. It will effectively block tannins AND it is an amazing bonding primer. Coverage per Quart:  Approximately 160 square feet

• Apply 2 coats • Wait 4-6 hours between coats of primer. This dry time is what seals in those stains and tannins. • After painting, wait 24 hours to apply top coat • If you are painting a light color, we recommend using the white primer.  If you are painting a dark color, OR if you plan on distressing, use the clear primer. • Priming is especially important if you are painting anything white that is a Depression era piece!  I cannot stress this enough.  These things will BLEED!  Clean well and always use our stain eliminating primer before painting these. • Woods that are notorious for bleeding are Mahogany and Cherry • It is recommended to prime with Wise Owl Primer before using the One Hour Enamel for extreme adhesion of the paint to surfaces.  This increases durability and longevity.  Cabinets, tile, and floors should ALWAYS be primed without exception.   • If spraying, may thin primer with water if needed but not more than 10%

Chalk Synthesis Paint-

Our Chalk Synthesis paint adheres to stained, painted, or wood furniture, metal, glass, fabric, and more. You will appreciate its ease of application and superior coverage. Available in various brilliant colors that can be used for a number of different paint techniques. 
• Clay based mineral paint • Super saturated, highly pigmented colors • Self-levels • Zero VOC’s & No Crystalline Silicates • If spraying, thin with water according to sprayer directions • 21-30 day cure time • Top Coat Required • Available in Pints, Quarts, and Gallons. A pint (16oz by volume) covers approximately 80sq feet & Quart (32oz by volume) covers approximately 160sq feet. 

One Hour Enamel Paint-

An incredibly tough fast dry acrylic enamel for interior and exterior use on surfaces that require quick return to service and an abrasion resistant finish. With its’ quick dry, quick sand and quick re-coat times ONE HOUR ENAMEL helps you get the job done faster than conventional acrylic finishes. The products’ superior resistance to blocking means that you will be able to put doors and windows back in service much quicker than with competitive acrylic finishes.
• 90% Cured in One Hour after paint is dry • Self-levels with a Satin Finish • Built-in topcoat that dries to a stone-hard finish • Very Low VOC’s—these dissipate quickly with rapid dry time • Available in Quarts and Gallons. Coverage per Gallon is approximately 400sq feet. • Do not use Wax over Enamel • Recommended recoat time is 2 hours • Recommend: Wise Owl Primer before use for superior adhesion • Recommended roller: microfiber 3/16 inch • If spraying, you may thin with water if needed but not more than 10% • If using Glaze over Enamel, no need to use Varnish first. Apply glaze right over Enamel. Must seal the glaze with Varnish. • Do not overwork. Lay down enough paint so that it has enough product to self-level but avoid drips. • If using Enamel on a floor or countertop, SATIN Varnish is recommended as a top coat if you are painting a light color, if it is in a high traffic area, or if it is in a place that will see heavy moisture/spills such as kitchens and baths. • Do NOT use shellac as a primer with One Hour Enamel! It will cause the paint to crackle


• Available in pints • 19 gorgeous colors, including metallics  • Can be uses to highlight details, for washes, and as a stain • Water based for easy clean up • If using to highlight details, to extend open time apply one coat of Varnish before applying glaze.   • Wipe excess glaze back with a lint free cloth. • Can be used right over the One Hour Enamel Paint • Glaze must be sealed with Wise Owl Varnish • Use Metallics over any paint color to give that color a metallic finish 

Matte & Satin Varnish-

• Available in Pints and Quarts • Tough as nails • Crystal Clear Formula—scientifically impossible to yellow over time • Rated for outdoor use with 3 thin coats • Self-levels • Recommended to wait 24 hours after painting to apply first coat of Varnish. Then recommended Varnish recoat time is 4 hours. • Lay it down quickly, do not over work!  Work in small sections • 21-30 day cure time
Wax made with Hemp & Coconut Oil and 3 different Waxes-

 • Apply with brush, wipe away excess with a lint free cloth • 21-30 day cure time • All natural, no solvents or fillers • Available in 4 oz and 8 oz tins • Clear, Black, Black Walnut • Used to seal paint or bare/stained wood • Colored wax can be used to “stain” wood • Hemp and Coconut Oils for conditioning, 3 different waxes for increased durability

Salve made with Hemp & Coconut Oil and 3 different Waxes-

 • Clear • Scented and Unscented (unscented is food-grade) • Available in 4 oz and 8 oz tins • 21-30 day cure time • All natural, no solvents or fillers • Same protection and application as Wax • Used to seal paint or bare/stained wood • Moisturizes and renews wood, leather, metal, stainless steel, etc • Great for wet-sanding • Hemp and Coconut Oils for conditioning, 3 different waxes for increased durability

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